Wilde Dagga (Leonotus leonurus), packet of 10 seeds, organic
$4.95
Family: Mint (Lamiaceae)
Hardy to Zones 9 to 12
(Wild dagga, Lion’s Tail, Lion’s Ears, Umunyane) Herbaceous or woody perennial. When growing in colder zones, these can be very late to re-emerge from the woody stumps of the previous year’s growth. Flowers in the late season on multiple upright stalks, occurring as long-tubed, hairy appendages emerging from the globose, whorled orbs. Hummingbirds become frenzied around this plant, and I’ve had them fly in through the door of the greenhouse (and risk hitting their little heads) in order to repeatedly visit a single flower that was making an out-of-season display. Easily one of the showiest medicinals of all time. Native to South Africa and planted in discriminating botanical gardens worldwide. When encountered on garden path, it is a breathtaker. Traditional usage (South African Tribes): smokable euphoric (orange inflorescences only as pictured), external wash against snakebite, other bites and stings, boils, eczema, skin diseases, itching, and muscular cramps, coughs, colds, influenza, bronchitis, high blood pressure and headaches. The plant is powerfully endowed with marrubiin and related compounds. Plant prefers full sun to part shade and regular garden or wayside conditions. Since the stems can become quite woody, it holds up well to traffic and random abuse. Well-drained, slightly alkaline soils seem to be the best choice, although almost any soil will work as long as the summer is hot and long. The plant is quite drought tolerant. Sow seeds in a flat or pot. Barely cover, tamp well, keep evenly moist, warm and in the light until germination, which occurs in 1 to 3 weeks. The seedlings are valuable and so normally not thinned–grow at close spacing for a few weeks until the second set of true leaves has formed, then prick into pots, and then after they grow out a bit more, transplant outdoors to 3 feet apart. In cold weather areas, you may wish to keep this plant in potted culture.
10 seeds per packet, certified organically grown
Out of stock
Question
Colleen –
Hi, I’m currently growing L. nepetifolia because it’s all I could find until now. (Your selection is amazing!) I’ve heard L. leonurus is medically superior, but I’m wondering if it’s as painfully stabby as klip dagga? Also does it spread as profusely? My zone 10 garden is full of stabby klip dagga plants now….
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Richo Cech –
hi colleen, i’m pretty sure its the dried receptacle of klip dagga, the rounded portion left over after the flowers dehisce, that you’re talking about, that is pokey. The true wilde dagga (Leonotis leonurus) is not so pokey, I’ve been squeezing out seeds all morning and haven’t been poked once. As a perennial, the true wilde dagga is clump-forming and i’ve never seen it volunteer–it is the annual species that like to do that. r
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jasperdshide (verified owner) –
I found the seeds a bit finicky to get started – warmth and light seem to be key and it may be beneficial to provide cooler nighttime temperatures too. Seedlings can be acclimated to drier conditions pretty quickly and it’s hard to overstate how quick these plants grow, especially when given rich soil or fertilizer. They’ll get absolutely massive if you let them so plan accordingly!
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Question
ycleptj –
I’m sorry to have omitted that basic info. Zone 9b, which some are already reclassifying as 10a in these days of global warming (California Bay Area), so our growing season is very long. But I will do as you suggest and hope for a happy result! Thanks.
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Diana –
These flower reliably in the bay area–check them at golden gate park. try to plant it in the ground if possible. r
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Sean R Brown –
I grow it as an annual in central illinois. I had it come back from seed after growing it in 17. It came back but very late and didnt flower in 18
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Question
Allegra Chesnut –
I grew this plant from seed (from SMS) four years ago. The first year it shot up to ten feet and bloomed like a champ. The next three years, nada, zero blooming. The plant is healthy to say the least, though after the first year it grew to a more seemly 4 feet. I have it in a 24″ diameter pot, 20″ high. Do you have any idea why it won’t bloom for me anymore? I’ve tried extra phosphorous and little nitrogen (it seems to need little fertilizer to grow lush foliage) but without success. I would be grateful for any insight you have. I’m at my wits’ ends. Clearly it’s unhappy about something but I really can’t figure it out. Thanks.
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Admin Richo Cech –
Hi Allegra, I can’t remember where you’re from and a long season is generally needed for blooming. You can depot, cut back roots, cut back aerials, and give it new potting soil. If you do this in the spring, this would be a restart button and it will probably act like the plant did the first year. r
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Question
Samantha Dover –
Drought tolerant, but what about high humidity? SC summers are brutal.
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Admin Richo Cech –
This is a plant that loves brutal summers, I wouldn’t let that stop me from planting it.
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Mark –
I’ve seen these growing in big stands at a plantation outside of Charleston.
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Richo Cech –
cool
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Allegra –
My leonotus are the most eye-catching plants I grow, but be prepared for them to get as high as 15 feet (if you prune a bit they’ll stay shorter). Even before they flower the growth is striking: bright green and very dense, and when the orange flowers appear they’re breathtaking. This is their second season and they came back from the roots even more vigorous than they were in their first year. This was one of the most challenging plants I’ve ever grown from seed — germination was slow and spotty — but even a single plant makes all the effort worthwhile. The medicinal qualities of leonotus are really just the icing on the cake of this amazing plant.
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